A full interior swap is one of those jobs that looks simple from the outside — it's just bolts and clips, right? — and then you're three hours in, sitting on an upturned bucket in the driveway, holding a seat that weighs more than it has any right to, wondering where the connector for the occupancy sensor went.
The plan was total: front seats, rear bench, door cards, the console and trim — the lot. On a P3 car the interior isn't just soft furnishings, it's wired. Every seat has a harness under it: seat-position motors, heating elements, the airbag occupancy sensor, seatbelt tension, and on the loaded cars ventilation and memory. So the swap isn't really an upholstery job, it's a wiring job wearing leather.
Removal is the satisfying part. Seats come out on four bolts and a couple of connectors — disconnect the battery first, because those are airbag circuits and the car will happily set a permanent SRS light to punish you if you don't. Door cards are clips and a couple of hidden screws behind the trim, then the connectors for the switch packs and speakers. The console and dash trim come away in layers.
The install is where the P3 platform earns its keep. It's not enough to bolt the new seats in — the car has to be told what it now has. If the new seats have heating the old ones didn't, or memory, or a different airbag classification, those live in the module configuration, not in the wiring. Get the harness right, then get the CarConfig right, and the car stops throwing lights and starts behaving like it left the factory this way.
The result is a car that feels like a different, nicer car from the driver's seat — and that nobody would ever guess had a second life bolted into it. Photos of the strip-down and the rebuild are in the album; the interesting bits are the connectors and the config, and those are exactly the things a swap guide never shows you.